Given the tensions in this world, I’m intentionally keeping this post light, just enough to let you know that all is well on the trail. So, if you need a diversion with some nice pictures, here you go.
When the Outfitter in Front Royal asked me if I qualified for any discounts, I told her that I was a Catholic priest. Her response —one that I would hear several times in town— was, “Well, you are in the right town!” Here’s a little background: the Diocese of Arlington, VA may be the most conservative in the US, and Front Royal may be its most conservative small town. (I, a former member of the Diocese of Arlington, loved being back there.) As if on cue, a rosary procession (on Saturday evening) then came down Main Street past the Outfitter. Of course, I joined in:
Fr Gee offered me hospitality, and it was fun that we had a friend in common, in particular one who had just delivered to me an impactful “word” in DC, about which I’m going to be mute.
The next day I entered Shenandoah National Park, aided by a ride to the trailhead from the family promoting the Legion of Mary at the ministry fair after Mass. Before I got into the car, the man’s littlest boy asked me to bless his rosary bracelet that had St Benedict medals on it, and they were thrilled that a Benedictine could give it a proper, full blessing. As is true, I told him that it could protect him from evil spirits, and he was very pleased.
Of the Shennies, I have so, so many pictures. As did other AT hikers, I mostly walked Skyline Dr to get the overlooks and to make good speed, as it’s getting colder.
As you can see by the pics, the leaves were just beginning to change as I was going through the park over my six days there.
I remember having my eyeballs filled with overlooks when driving Skyline many years ago, but walking it is entirely different. Each outlook is rather unique, as far as photos of green-blue mountains go from 3000ish feet up:
Here is what about 100 mikes of it looked like:
Here is a photo diary my fastest time for traversing a mountain:
There was a curbed sidewalk in the tunnel, but I did run it just to be safe.
So, I saw Rhodie briefly when he caught me at the end of a lunch break. He and his friend were going through the Smokies pretty slowly, and he still had thoughts of leaving the trail at the end of the park. I had stealth-sited with Flight Risk and Merlin the night before, and we were all trying to get ahead of the rain projected for Saturday. We enjoyed our last Blackberry shakes at the final wayside grill in the Shennies, at Loft Mountain, and Flight Risk named it the best of them all. By the way, backpacking in the Shenandoah National Park is like hiking with training wheels, given the easy trails and elevation, the many views, and the plentiful wayside resupply spots. I mean it’s seemingly not as facile as the Cammino, but it’s easy for the AT.
Given that my miles per week was increasing and thus my feet hurt, I could go no further that day. So, we parted ways, agreeing to meet the next day at the final shelter in the park and to walk the following morning in the rain.
I made up time by awaking at 4:15 am to do a night hike, something I wanted to do while Skyline drive made it very easy. It was beautiful and serene.
I was able to make up the six miles they had done the prior evening and pass them. (That was important because I was hiking with some fast hikers.) They eventually caught me and informed me that their new plan was to hike out of the park that day, which would mean a twenty mile day for them and a twenty six mile day for me!
After a few miles, I started to fall behind on an uphill.
But then on the downhill, I found my runner’s breathe and my rhythm, got into a flow, and gained speed. They even let me lead on a long, gentle downhill, of which, thankfully, we had many. “Cashmoney, you say you are a slow hiker, but I just clocked you mile marker to mile marker at 16-minutes,” said Flight Risk. Later, “Cashmoney, you again clocked a 16-minute mile, putting us at 3.75 mph.” Yet as soon as another uphill portion came, I fell behind, as they, Merlin in particular, could hike straight uphill at 3 mph with ease, while holding a conversation. While they themselves, after much training, are built for endurance hiking — Merlin has had 40-mile days—, it is also the case that their ultra-light gear is also much, much lighter than mine. I was at every disadvantage.
They say that you don’t do your second marathon until you forget your first. I didn’t plan on this one, and I know I haven’t forgotten my first. I ran a running marathon many years ago, and I can still remember the pain of miles 20 to 26.2, esp. 24 to 26.2. I had been at almost full breath (85% exertion) for maybe 15 miles, just to keep up. I told them to send the shuttle driver into the park to get me, charging me for the entrance fee, if I fell behind. I really started to feel it with 2 miles to go. I had two options, stay in my head, feel the pain, and fall way behind, or get into my flow and run it full out. I did the later, eventually putting the other two out of sight behind me.
I made it. Ok, there was a discrepancy between Apple Maps and Google Maps about the length of it, but the Apple Maps seemed to track our route combination of road plus some AT, putting it at 26 miles, so I’m taking it. I ran from one overpass of I-64 to the other and back to add .2 mi. I left camp at 5:04 am, taking the night hiking very slowly, checking my six often for bears, and I finished, ahead of the shuttle’s arrival, at 4 pm, making it in 10:56.
Beautiful! Fall is such a beautiful time of the year. Enjoy Fr. Cassian! We're praying for you!
I lived in Charlottesville for 8 years. Was married there. Spent some time driving along skyline drive. I even spent a day or two hiking up to humpback rock. I always thought it was one of the prettiest places anyone could live. Spent a fair amount of time gazing at the blue ridge mountains while jogging with my black lab outside Charlottesville. Your post brought back some great memories of my time there and the beauty of nature around skyline drive. Thanks...